The next day involved my first experience of the buses. On arriving in a Morrocan bus station touts set upon you to convey you to thier own bus, and although it is quite usual that this will be going to the right place, it might take hours to fill up and set off. During that time I was entertained by numerous beggars who walked on and off each of the buses. There was an amputee without any arms, several women with drugged children, toothless old women, quacks and missionaries hoping for some dihram for the pamphlets they had distributed for the purpose of edification. Mainly these buses were filled by Moroccans, most tourists ignoring the bsuses entirely or using the official national company with its air conditioning, greater fares and regular services, and the beggers were appealing to the Moroccans rather than me.
The touts often fall out with one another. Much of this is masculine sparring of a good-natured kind, often concluding in back-slapping and mock wrestling. Several times, however, I did see how territorial considerations and matters of honour could cause several fights, perhaps exacerbated by the fast, which required rapid intervention of other men or police. I was made quite aware that matters were getting out of hand when the staff availed themselves with a big plank of hardwood out of the boot of the bus. A rapid evacuation of my transport from the station ensued, which was a positive result.
These buses also pick up people on the road along the way which can be quite convenient but also adds hours to a long journey. The Moroccans I could see were quite acquainted with waiting, and I saw many men appear spend whole days sittting on the ground, often in the sun, doing nothing at all. At grand taxi ranks tranport leaves when six passengers join the driver, four in the back and three in the front of an ordinary saloon car, and a live sheep in the boot. This can take half a day if the destination is not a popular one out of market day.
Later on in my jouney I took a running jump at a bus which was moving up at speed and was pulled onboard, an example of extreme Routemastering.
Fight (II).
I was travelling to Demnate. Part way through the journey the bus stopped and its passengers began to disembark with some anxiety. A woman with fear in her eyes gestured that I should do likewise and on reaching the door, I could see what the concern was, as a smoke like vapour was emanating from the undercarriage. We spent an amusing time waiting at a convenient distance for the vehicle to be investigated.
Accident.
The touts often fall out with one another. Much of this is masculine sparring of a good-natured kind, often concluding in back-slapping and mock wrestling. Several times, however, I did see how territorial considerations and matters of honour could cause several fights, perhaps exacerbated by the fast, which required rapid intervention of other men or police. I was made quite aware that matters were getting out of hand when the staff availed themselves with a big plank of hardwood out of the boot of the bus. A rapid evacuation of my transport from the station ensued, which was a positive result.
These buses also pick up people on the road along the way which can be quite convenient but also adds hours to a long journey. The Moroccans I could see were quite acquainted with waiting, and I saw many men appear spend whole days sittting on the ground, often in the sun, doing nothing at all. At grand taxi ranks tranport leaves when six passengers join the driver, four in the back and three in the front of an ordinary saloon car, and a live sheep in the boot. This can take half a day if the destination is not a popular one out of market day.
Later on in my jouney I took a running jump at a bus which was moving up at speed and was pulled onboard, an example of extreme Routemastering.
Fight (II).
I was travelling to Demnate. Part way through the journey the bus stopped and its passengers began to disembark with some anxiety. A woman with fear in her eyes gestured that I should do likewise and on reaching the door, I could see what the concern was, as a smoke like vapour was emanating from the undercarriage. We spent an amusing time waiting at a convenient distance for the vehicle to be investigated.
Accident.
posted by Ian Blaney at 11:42 AM
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